The price depends on the number of fittings, the ceiling type, access equipment, emergency fittings, any controls, out-of-hours working and tube disposal. Savings depend on the wattage you remove, the hours your lights are on and your unit rate, so you can work out your own payback before you commit.
Prices at a glance
| Job | Typical price | Time |
|---|---|---|
| Small office or shop, up to around 20 fittings | Fixed price per job | Usually 1 day |
| Larger office, a floor or zone at a time | Fixed price per job | Usually 1–3 days |
| Warehouse or workshop high-bay lighting | Fixed price per job | Usually 1–3 days, depending on height and access |
| Emergency fittings replaced or converted | Fixed price per job | Usually done alongside the main job |
| Occupancy sensors or daylight dimming | Fixed price per job | Usually adds part of a day |
| Wiring faults found above the ceiling | Priced before any work | Varies |
What should an LED upgrade quote include?
A fair quote covers the whole job, from taking down the old fittings to the certificate at the end. If a quote is just a price per light, ask what else is included.
When you compare quotes, check each one lists:
- A survey of every area
- Fittings counted, ceiling types noted and how each space is used.
- Fittings named or specified
- Wattage, light output and warranty, so you can compare like for like.
- Removal and disposal
- Old fittings and tubes taken away, with waste paperwork.
- Emergency lighting
- Which fittings are emergency units and how they will be replaced.
- Testing and certificate
- Circuits tested after the work, with the right certificate.
- Working hours and phasing
- When the work happens and which areas stay lit.
What makes an LED upgrade cost more or less?
The number of fittings matters most, but the building can change the price as much as the count. Two offices with the same number of lights can need quite different prices.
- Number of fittings
- Each one is removed, fitted, connected and checked.
- Ceiling type
- Suspended grid panels are simplest; plasterboard needs cut-outs and making good.
- High bays
- Warehouse and workshop heights need heavier fittings and more care.
- Access equipment
- Tall ceilings or racking may need a tower or powered access.
- Emergency fittings
- Self-contained emergency units cost more than standard fittings.
- Controls
- Sensors, daylight dimming or zoned switching add parts and wiring.
- Out-of-hours working
- Evenings, early mornings or phased work add planning and time.
- Tube and fitting disposal
- Fluorescent tubes are hazardous waste and must go to a proper route.
- Condition of the wiring
- Brittle cable at old fittings may need replacing as you go.
How do I work out how much LED will save?
You can estimate your own saving with three numbers: the watts you remove, the hours the lights are on, and your electricity unit rate. Do the sum yourself rather than trusting a headline payback figure.
- 1. Find the old wattage
- Per fitting, from the label. Include control gear if the label shows it.
- 2. Find the new wattage
- Per fitting, from the quote or data sheet for the LED fitting.
- 3. Work out the difference
- Old minus new, times the number of fittings, divided by 1,000 to give kW.
- 4. Multiply by hours per year
- Hours per day the lights are on, times days open per year.
- 5. Multiply by your unit rate
- The price per kWh on your electricity bill gives the yearly saving.
Can you show a worked example of the savings sum?
Yes. Say an office has 40 old four-tube fittings. With their control gear, older fittings like these can draw around 80W each. They are replaced with LED panels drawing around 30W each.
The difference is 50W per fitting. Across 40 fittings, that is 2,000W, or 2kW. If the lights are on 10 hours a day, 250 days a year, that is 2,500 hours. 2kW × 2,500 hours = 5,000 kWh a year saved.
Multiply 5,000 by the unit rate on your bill to get the yearly saving in pounds. Then divide the quoted price by that saving to get a rough payback in years. The figures here are for illustration only. Use the wattages from your own fittings and quote.
Why does payback depend so much on hours of use?
Every hour a light is on is an hour of saving. So the more hours your lights run, the faster an LED upgrade pays for itself.
A warehouse lit 12 hours a day, six or seven days a week, saves far more each year than a small office lit only during the working day. Corridors, stairwells and car parks that stay on all night also pay back quickly. Rooms used for an hour a week save little from LED alone, though sensors can help there.
Controls add to the saving by cutting hours, not watts. Occupancy sensors switch lights off in empty rooms, and daylight dimming turns them down near windows.
What maintenance costs does LED save?
LED fittings last much longer and need little looking after, so the saving is not only on the electricity bill.
Quality LED fittings are often rated for 50,000 hours or more, far longer than fluorescent tubes. That means fewer failed lights, no starters or tubes to stock, and less time on ladders or hiring access equipment to reach high fittings. In a warehouse, where changing one high-bay lamp can mean a tower or a lift, that adds up. When you work out payback, include what you currently spend on tubes, call-outs and access each year.
Do I have to replace fluorescent lighting now?
There is no rule that says you must remove working fluorescent fittings. But since September 2023, most common T5 and T8 fluorescent tubes can no longer be sold in Great Britain under ecodesign rules.
Old stock is running down, so replacement tubes are getting harder to find. Many businesses now plan the switch on their own timetable, rather than waiting until a row of lights fails with no tubes to replace them. Upgrading in phases, one floor or area at a time, also spreads the cost.
Are there grants or tax reliefs for business LED lighting?
Possibly, but schemes change often, so check what is available when you plan the work. Some businesses can claim capital allowances on new lighting, and local or national energy efficiency schemes open and close.
Ask your accountant about tax treatment, and check GOV.UK and local business support services for current schemes. Find out before you sign a quote, as some schemes need approval before work starts.
How do I get an accurate fixed price?
Send clear photos of each area and a close-up of a typical fitting. Most LED upgrades can be priced from photos, with a survey visit for larger or more complex buildings.
- Each room or area
- Showing the ceiling and the full layout of fittings.
- A fitting close up
- Including the label inside if you can see it safely.
- Emergency lights
- Usually have a small green charging light on them.
- Ceiling heights
- A rough height, and anything in the way such as racking.
- When you're open
- So the work can be planned around your hours.
Questions
Is it cheaper to fit LED tubes than new fittings?
Retrofit tubes cost less up front, but the old fitting, wiring and any ballast stay in place. New LED panels or battens usually last longer, give a new warranty and remove ageing parts, so they are often better value.
Can I do the upgrade in stages?
Yes. Many businesses convert one floor, zone or area at a time to spread the cost and disruption. Ask for each phase to be priced separately so you know the total and can plan each step.
Will I need new emergency lighting?
Usually some emergency fittings need replacing or converting, since they have battery packs inside. Emergency lighting must still meet BS 5266 afterwards, and should be tested before handover.
Why do LED upgrade quotes vary so much?
Quotes differ in fitting quality, whether emergency units, controls, disposal and certificates are included, and how the work is scheduled. Compare fitting specifications and what is included, not just the total.
Will the new lighting be as bright as the old?
It should be as bright or brighter, if the fittings are chosen for each area. Offices typically need around 300 to 500 lux at desk level. A good quote chooses fittings for the space, not just one for one.
Can I find out how much energy my lights use now?
Count the fittings and check the wattage on a label inside one, or on the tube. Multiply by your hours of use. Your quote should list the old and new wattages so you can compare.