The price mainly depends on the charger you choose, how far your parking spot is from the fuse board, whether the board has room for a new circuit, and how your supply is earthed. A supply upgrade by the network operator, if needed, is separate. Check GOV.UK for current grants.
Prices at a glance
| Job | Typical price | Time |
|---|---|---|
| Standard install: charger on an outside wall, short cable run | Fixed price per job | Usually half a day |
| Longer cable run, or charger on a garage | Fixed price per job | Usually 1 day |
| Cable buried in a duct across a drive or garden | Fixed price per job | Usually adds half a day or more |
| Earth rod, where the charger needs one | Fixed price per job | Usually done the same day |
| Load-balancing sensor, where needed | Fixed price per job | Fitted during installation |
How much of the cost is the charger and how much is the installation?
Most quotes bundle the two, but they're separate costs. The charger is a product with its own price, and the installation covers the circuit, cable, protection, testing and paperwork.
Chargers vary by brand, features, warranty and whether they're tethered. The installation varies by your house. Ask every installer to name the exact charger model in the quote, so you can check its features and compare like with like.
Some installers will fit a charger you've bought yourself. If you do this, check it meets the Electric Vehicles (Smart Charge Points) Regulations 2021, that it's compatible with your earthing arrangement, and who handles warranty claims if it fails.
Does the distance from the fuse board change the price?
Yes, it's usually the biggest difference between one house and the next. The closer the charger is to the fuse board, the less cable, drilling and time the job needs.
The cheapest setup is a fuse board on or near an outside wall, with the charger on the other side of it. Many 1930s semis in Oadby and Wigston, with the board in the hall and a drive at the front, suit this well. Costs rise when the cable has to run through several rooms, along the outside of the house, into a detached garage or under a drive.
Longer runs may also need a thicker cable to keep the voltage drop within limits, which adds to the materials. Buried cable has to be armoured or in a duct at a safe depth, and the surface then has to be put back. If you want the charger somewhere specific, say so up front, because a slightly different spot can sometimes save a lot of cable.
Will I need a new consumer unit for an EV charger?
Not always. The charger needs its own circuit with suitable protection, and many boards can take that or be supplemented without a full replacement.
The options usually look like this:
- Spare way in a modern board
- The simplest case. A suitable RCBO goes into the existing board.
- Separate small enclosure
- A small extra unit for the charger circuit, near the meter.
- Full board replacement
- Needed where the board is old, plastic, full or lacks RCD protection.
- The right RCD type
- Most chargers have DC fault detection built in; otherwise a costlier Type B RCD is needed.
What is PME earthing and why does it affect the cost?
PME is the most common type of earthing on UK homes. It's safe for most uses, but the Wiring Regulations restrict using it on its own for charging a car outdoors.
The concern is a rare network fault called a broken or open PEN. If it happens, metal parts connected to the house earth, including the car, can rise to a dangerous voltage. The current Wiring Regulations (BS 7671, 18th Edition) require protection against this.
Most modern chargers have open-PEN protection built in, so no extra equipment is needed. Where the charger doesn't, or the site needs it, an earth rod is driven into the ground near the charger to give the circuit its own earth. That adds time, and ground conditions and nearby buildings affect whether a rod is suitable. A good quote says which approach is being used and why.
Do I need to tell the DNO, and will they upgrade my supply?
Yes, every home charger has to be notified to the Distribution Network Operator, and the installer normally does this. In Leicestershire the DNO is National Grid Electricity Distribution.
For most homes the notification happens after installation. Some homes need approval before the charger goes in, for example where the main fuse is small, the supply cable is shared with a neighbour (a looped supply), or there's already a heat pump or other large load. If the DNO decides the main fuse or supply needs upgrading, they do the work, set the timescale and decide whether there's a charge. That's outside your installer's price.
A load-balancing sensor can sometimes avoid an upgrade. It watches how much power the house is using and slows charging when demand is high. Clear photos of the meter and main fuse let an installer spot most of these issues early.
Are there grants for home EV chargers?
There may be, but most homeowners with a driveway aren't currently eligible for the main government grant. Grant rules change often, so always check the current schemes on GOV.UK before you rely on one.
The government's EV chargepoint grant, run by the Office for Zero Emission Vehicles (OZEV), has mainly been aimed at flat owners, people who rent and landlords. Where a grant applies, it's usually claimed through an approved installer and taken off your bill, so ask about it before installation, not after. Some energy suppliers and car makers also run their own offers, and those are worth checking too.
Is a tethered or untethered charger cheaper?
The price difference is usually small, and it can go either way depending on the model. The real difference is how you use it.
A tethered charger has its cable fixed on, so there's nothing to buy separately. An untethered charger has a socket, so you need a Type 2 cable, which many cars come with but some don't. If you'll change car or have visitors with different cars, untethered is more flexible. If you just want to park and plug in, tethered is quicker day to day.
Check the cable length either way. A longer cable, or one that needs to reach a charge port on the far side of the car, can affect where the charger is mounted.
How do I compare EV charger quotes?
Compare what's included, then check who's doing it. A cheaper quote that leaves out earthing, board work or the DNO notification isn't really cheaper.
Each quote should name the charger model, describe the cable route and length, say how open-PEN protection is provided, cover any board work, and include DNO notification, building control notification and an Electrical Installation Certificate. Check the electrician on the Electrical Competent Person register, or the register of the scheme they say they belong to, such as NICEIC or NAPIT.
At NT Electric we price from photos of the board, meter and parking spot, and give one fixed price before any work starts.
Questions
Can I install an EV charger myself?
Not legally without involving building control. A charger needs a new circuit, which is notifiable under Part P, and it must be notified to the DNO. It also needs the right earthing and protection. In practice, a registered electrician is the safe and simpler route.
How long does the DNO process take?
For most homes it's a notification after installation, so it doesn't hold anything up. Where approval is needed first, or the DNO has to upgrade the supply, it can take several weeks. Your installer should tell you early if your photos suggest this.
Does a 22kW charger cost more to install?
Yes, much more in most homes. It needs a three-phase supply, which most houses don't have, and adding one means an application to the DNO. Many cars can't charge at 22kW anyway, so a 7kW charger suits almost every home.
Do I need Wi-Fi where the car parks?
Smart chargers need a connection to schedule charging and receive updates. If your Wi-Fi is weak at the drive, a range extender may help, or some chargers can connect by mobile data or a cable. Check signal before choosing a model.
Can I get a charger if I park on the street?
A home charger needs off-street parking. Running a cable across a pavement isn't allowed without council permission. Creating a drive usually needs a dropped kerb, which needs approval from Leicester City Council or Leicestershire County Council, depending on where you live.
Will I need to change my energy tariff?
You don't have to, but an EV or off-peak tariff can make charging much cheaper per mile. Smart chargers can schedule charging for cheaper hours automatically. Compare tariffs before or soon after installation, as the choice is yours and doesn't affect the installation price.