For most homes, a 7kW smart charger with a Type 2 connector is the right choice. Then decide on tethered or untethered, check that it has built-in open-PEN protection so you can usually avoid an earth rod, and match its smart features to your life: off-peak tariff support, solar matching if you have panels, and load balancing if your supply is tight. Cable length, mounting position and warranty matter more than the brand.
Should I get a 7kW or a 22kW home charger?
Almost always 7kW. A 22kW charger only delivers 22kW on a three-phase supply, and most UK homes are single-phase. On a single-phase supply, around 7kW is the practical limit.
The car matters too. Charging at home is AC charging, and the car's own on-board charger sets the limit. Many cars accept around 7kW to 11kW on AC, and only some accept 22kW. Check your car's AC charging figure in the handbook or manufacturer's spec before paying for more.
If you do have three-phase, an 11kW or 22kW unit can make sense, especially for a business, a larger property or a car that can use it. For a car parked overnight, though, 7kW will fill most batteries by morning.
Tethered or untethered: which is better?
Neither is better overall. Tethered is the most convenient for daily use, and untethered is the most flexible. Think about who uses it and how often you'll change cars.
- Tethered suits
- One regular car, quick plug-in every night, no cable to dig out of the boot.
- Untethered suits
- Households changing car soon, visitors with different cars, or a tidier look.
- Tethered downside
- The cable stays on the wall, and its length is fixed.
- Untethered downside
- You need your own cable, and it can be stolen if left plugged in.
Which connector do I need?
Type 2. It is the standard AC connector for cars sold new in the UK and Europe, and nearly every home charger uses it.
A few older models used a Type 1 connector. If you have one of those, an untethered charger with a Type 1-to-Type 2 cable is usually the simplest answer, because it also works with your next car. Don't confuse the home connector with CCS or CHAdeMO, which are for rapid DC public chargers and aren't used on home units.
What smart features are actually worth having?
Every new home charger in Great Britain has to be smart, so the question is which features you'll use. Pick the ones that match your tariff, your parking and your supply.
- Scheduling
- Charge only in your tariff's cheap hours, set once in the app.
- Tariff integration
- Some chargers link directly with certain energy suppliers' EV tariffs.
- Solar matching
- Charges from surplus solar power instead of exporting it cheaply.
- Load balancing
- Slows charging when the house is busy, protecting the main fuse.
- Usage reports
- Useful if your employer reimburses home charging for a company car.
- Offline control
- Check it still charges, or can be scheduled, if Wi-Fi drops.
What is open-PEN protection, and why does it matter?
It is a safety feature that protects you if the supply's neutral and earth conductor fails on the network side. Choose a charger with it built in. It usually means no earth rod is needed.
Many homes have a PME supply. If the combined neutral and earth on the network breaks, which is rare, the car's metal body could become live while it is plugged in outdoors. The Wiring Regulations (BS 7671) deal with this risk for EV chargers. One common way is a device that detects the fault and disconnects the car. Many modern chargers include it.
Without it, the installer will usually need to fit an earth rod. That can be awkward where the ground is all concrete or block paving, and it adds work. A charger with built-in open-PEN protection makes the installation simpler in most homes, but the installer still decides what suits your supply.
Where should the charger go, and how long should the cable be?
Mount it where the cable reaches the car's charge port easily, without stretching across a path. Check where the port is on your car first. It can be front, rear, left or right.
Many tethered chargers come with a cable of around 5 metres, and some offer longer options. Longer cables reach more parking positions but are heavier and messier to coil. Think about whether you reverse or drive in, and whether a second car might park in front.
The distance from the fuse board matters too. If you park on a drive far from the board, a long cable run, or a run through a garage or under paving, adds work and can mean a thicker cable. It is often cheaper to mount the charger on the nearest suitable wall and choose a longer charging cable than to run the supply cable further.
Does weatherproofing and security matter?
Yes. A home charger lives outdoors for years, so check its IP rating and, for exposed spots, its impact rating. Security covers the software as well as the cable.
The IP rating shows protection against dust and water. A higher second digit means better resistance to rain and jets of water, so a unit facing driving rain needs a good one. The IK rating, where given, shows resistance to knocks. That's useful on a drive where a car or bike might bump it.
The Electric Vehicles (Smart Charge Points) Regulations 2021 set security requirements for smart chargers sold in Great Britain. These include protecting the software, secure updates and no weak default passwords. They also require default off-peak settings, which you can change. Any reputable charger on sale now should meet these rules. Be wary of very cheap, unknown imports. For physical security, many units offer app or key locking so nobody can use your charger without permission.
What should I check about warranty and support?
Check the warranty length, what it covers and who you call if it stops working. A good charger with poor support is a frustrating thing to own.
Ask whether the warranty covers parts only or a site visit too, and whether it depends on registering the unit. Check that the app is actively updated and that the company is likely to be around in five years. Ask your installer who handles a fault: them, or the manufacturer.
Well-known brands include Ohme, Hypervolt, myenergi (zappi), Andersen, Wallbox and Pod Point. They are named only as examples of what's on the UK market, not as recommendations. Several are good choices; the right one depends on your needs.
So which EV charger is right for me?
Start from your situation, not the brand. These rules of thumb cover most Leicester homes. If you're unsure, send us photos of your fuse board, meter and parking spot, and we'll suggest a charger and give you one fixed price before any work starts.
- If you have solar panels
- Choose a charger with solar matching, ideally one that needs no extra wiring.
- If you're on an EV tariff
- Check the charger works with that supplier's tariff before buying.
- If you have two electric cars
- Consider two chargers with shared load balancing, or one with a second socket.
- If you park far from the fuse board
- Mount it on the nearest good wall and choose a longer cable.
- If your main fuse is small
- Load balancing may avoid a supply upgrade.
- If you'll change car soon
- Untethered keeps your options open.
- If you just want it simple
- A 7kW tethered charger with built-in open-PEN protection.
Questions
Do I need to buy the charger myself?
Usually not. Most installers supply the charger as part of a fixed price, and some will fit one you've bought. If you buy your own, check it's compatible with your supply and that the installer is happy to fit and register it.
Will a smart charger work without Wi-Fi?
Most will still charge, but you may lose scheduling, tariff links and app control. If Wi-Fi is weak at the parking spot, a unit with a mobile data option or a wired network connection may be more reliable.
Can I use a three-pin plug instead of a charger?
For occasional top-ups, a manufacturer-supplied cable on a sound socket can work, but it is slow. Using it every night puts a heavy load on a socket for hours. A dedicated charger is safer and much quicker.
Can one charger serve two cars?
Yes, by taking turns, and with scheduling that works well for many households. Some chargers have two outlets that share the power. If both cars need a full charge most nights, two load-balanced chargers may suit better.
Is a dearer charger always better?
No. A higher price often pays for features like solar matching, a longer cable or a premium finish. If you won't use those, a well-supported, mid-range 7kW smart charger with open-PEN protection does the same core job.
Can I change my charger later?
Yes. The circuit and cable are usually reusable if they are suitable for the new unit. Swapping a charger is normally a much smaller job than a new installation, though the new one still needs testing and the paperwork updating.